Kitchen Knife Blade Blank - S078 7" Cleaver Knife
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I like itI found your tips both interesting and helpful. I am a beginner so all info is useful. Thanks
Kitchen Knife Blade Blank S078 7" Cleaver Knife
- 12.5" OAL
- 7" Blade Length
- 4.5" x 1.25" Handle Material Area
- Hole and slot size is: .187”
These are 5Cr15MoV Stainless Steel blade blanks.
Make these for your family and friends or to sell. These are fast and easy to finish.
These blades are fully heat treated, sharp and ready to finish.
Scales are sold separately and your choice of materials.
If you are using wood, it would be preferable to use stabilized wood with several coats of polyurethane sealer after shaping and sanding.
A good choice might be Paper Micarta™ in 1/4” thickness giving you classic blank handles. Micarta will hold up well to water and moisture exposure.
Tape up the blade edge before working on any sharpened knife.
The edge on these blanks are already fully sharpened.
Never work on a knife with a sharp edge without safely covering the cutting the edge!
Made from 5Cr15MoV steel.
The handle tangs have extra material removed to move the weight of the knife forward which is where you want it for a kitchen knife.
Scales can be fastened using our MEDIUM SIZE CORBY bolts or pin stock (or mosaic pins, Lovelass bolts, Acorn fasteners). Use ¼” or 3/8” thick scale materials.
There is a center hole and a slot on both sides of the center hole. The front and back slots allow adjustment of placement for the Corby bolts (or mosaic pins, Lovelass style or other pins) to your preference. You can use two pins using just the outside slots or three with the center hole.
When finishing, fill in the slots with epoxy which will lock the pins in the slots in firmly in place. This is typical of production kitchen blade blanks. This allows front and back pin placement to be different between companies offering these in fully finished blades. The scale mounted flush to the bolster will help firmly secure the scales in place along with 2 or 3 fasteners of your choice. It isn’t necessary to fill in the lightening holes with epoxy.
The integral bolster is finished and add a nice detail to your kitchen knife.
Stainless steel is steel that has at least 13% Cr (Chromium). These knives have a bit more chrome to increase rust resistance.
These blade blanks are made in China.
Tip: Attaching scales to a bolster knife isn’t that hard.
Square up one end of your scales material.
Put both scales flush firmly against the bolster on one side. It is important you note which side of your scales is to show and which side mounts next to the tang. Mark the scales with arrows pointing up and to the front. Also mark the tang side of the scales. Once drilled the scales are not interchangeable. It’s easy to get a bit mixed up here. Think it through a little before you drill.
Clamp the scales in place and drill through the back side through the tang holes or slots through the scales. Make sure your blade is taped up with a protective sheath of plastic, cardboard or leather scrap.
Alternatively, you can place one scale flush against the bolster and drill your holes through one scale. Then stack the scales flush together and using the already drilled scales as a guide, drill through the other scale. You will have to be precise in locating the holes in the slots in the same location for both scales or they won’t match up during assembly. It is usually more accurate to drill both scales at the same time.
When drilling your scale holes, drill the side that is safest. In other words, if the blade catches on the drill bit and “helicopters” the sharp edge isn’t the leading edge as it spins. A vertical post mounted to your drill press will help stop a runaway “helicopter” blade.
Test fit the holes and fasteners before gluing!
Enlarging the holes is not suggested and will likely result in a cracked handle. Stick with 3/16” pins.