Rough Rider Custom Shop Knife Kit 2 RRCS2

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  1. RR Custom Trapper will make your friends jealous, really
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    I bought this because I'm researching being a re-seller, and I've never owned a trapper!
    I ran into some assembly issues, and decided to make a couple notes, because I know I'm not the only one.

    This Rough Rider Trapper 2 blade knife is really nice when you get it done.

    I'm a decent mechanic and metallurgist, this knife took me some time, a lotta time, since it's my first one.

    When you get one of these nice blades, it will take some time, a lot of sanding and some tools, but it's totally worth it, this is a nice knife.
    I can see myself in the bolsters. brought sanding up to 600 grit before using white rouge and muslin for final polish.

    here's a hint; polish all surfaces BEFORE assembly, especially where the blades pivot against the liners. you'll see why.

    do any sanding, grinding, polishing and scale formation BEFORE the epoxy stage. leave as little work as possible, to be done after peening.
    after you peen these knives down. they won't be able to be adjusted anymore, so make sure it's all lined up BEFORE PEENING.

    Here's the trouble I ran into;
    Didn't want to use the handles that came with the kit, instead using a pair I made of oak.

    Don't listen to anyone or instructions to the contrary, I HIGHLY recommend using pins to secure the scales to the liners.

    I read one instruction sheet that said;
    "it's not necessary to both pin, and epoxy the scales to your new knife, but if you want to that's up to you..."

    so, I thought, okay, I'll eliminate the pins, and see how it goes.
    and then I dropped it. one scale was slightly loosened, and of course I had to re-polish the bolsters again.

    after I put this knife together around 10 times for practice, and for this kit I think I only had to open one of the handle holes a bit. the parts started loosening up, I was worried the pins would be too loose
    but after peening them all, they came out really well.
    peening will take time, the right ball-peen hammer (4 oz) and some practice, but stick with it, it's worth it on this blade.

    besides the peening, which is an art in itself, I did run into a number of other assembly issues;

    once the entire knife was peened into place permanently, and was essentially finished except polishing, I noticed the blades were slightly raised from where they should be in the closed position, allowing the sharp point of the knife to be exposed when the blade was supposed to be closed. very dangerous. couldn't sell it anymore, bummer.

    the solution was to scrap the blade, or do something else;
    I figured out why the blades were proud of the assembly, and removed some material from the underside of the blade, where it sits against the spring at the front of the knife when closed.
    and it worked! saved this knife!

    and then I noticed a NICK IN THE BLADE! right after I honed it to a razor edge, there was a mysterious nick in the middle of the blade, another ruination! dammit

    but, again, I persevered and ground enough of the edge off to not hit the spring back at the center, inside, bottom.

    if you look inside the knife, the back spring has a space for the pin to go through, and that's where the blade was being nicked, when I closed it.
    after re-shaping and forming the blade again, above the spring line of sight, it now closes without putting a dent in the blade.

    finally sharpening and honing; this blade is ultra-sharp now, hair popping and ready for a new owner. smooth opening and closing with a snappy action.

    I'll sell it, reducing the price because it lacks scale pins, my judgement, my mistake. never again.

    I'm ordering a few now, saving shipping, and looking forward to getting a few in the hands of some new owners.
    I know every knife I build, is better than the last.
    wwolf @

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Trapper everything you need to build a very nice trapper

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