Cutlers Rivets in Brass .60” to .95” Long

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SMMS-CRM-CutlerRivet-#2
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H1.3
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Grouped product items
Product Name Qty
Cutlers Rivets in Brass .60” to .95” Long - 25 count
$9.16
Cutlers Rivets in Brass .60” to .95” Long - 500 count
$91.67
Cutlers Rivets in Brass .60” to .95” Long - 1000 count
$156.00
Cutlers Rivets in Brass .60” to .95” Long

Cutlers Rivets in Brass .60” to .95” Long

 

These are traditional cutlers rivets. To use them, pound the male solid shank side into the female tube side and they will hold tight. Really tight.

This style handle fastener is still widely used today after a hundred or more years because it works so well. It’s quick, easy and holds fast. Your commercial kitchen knives almost certainly use some form of cutlers rivets.

 



The dimensions are:

  • Shortest (most collapsed) is .60” OAL
  • Longest is: .95” OAL
  • The female tube is .150” in diameter but when the male is pounded it, the tube will expand to .165”
  • Drill your holes in the scales and tang to at least .165”
  • The top “head” is .045” thick
  • The top head diameter is: .249”

 

This Cutlers rivet will fit a knife handle stack (2 scales and tang) that is .60” thick up to .95” thick when countersunk. This is going to cover nearly every knife handle thickness in your kitchen and most hunting knives.

 

Tip: You can counter sink the heads or leave them proud. It has been done both ways historically but certainly countersunk is more widely used.

To countersink the heads, trial and error drilling into your handle material until the head is flush or even below the surface and sand down the handle material flush to the head. The countersink hole bottom does not have to be flat. If you want a flat bottomed hole, grind the tip of a ¼” drill bit flat. It will cut enough to get the job done. You are only countersinking this .045”

 

Tip: Try not to undersize the hole in wood or other natural material. When you pound these together the shank is going to expand putting pressure on the wood and over time the wood is going to crack from humidity changes. Wood always loses. G10, Micarta or other high pressure laminate or phenolic don’t change size so much and are quite a bit tougher so this is less of a concern. Better to have the shank hole a little oversize than undersized. It’s OK to use epoxy with these to seal the scale but it isn’t required.

 

Customer Reviews

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  1. Rivets too long, trimmed them, coutersinking
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    Value
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    To trim rivets drill a hole in a hardwood piece with the thickness so the amount you want to trim sticks out. Back the head with another piece, vise it, cut with hacksaw. File off burrs, use a larger drill to take off burr inside female piece. Countersink with forstner bit. Start rivets with light hammer taps, set with vise.

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  2. I don't have the product, but the information and description of the item were invaluable to me.
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    Can't wait to get athem and fix my friends paring knife which she has loved for 25 yrs but the handle was dying a slow death. I found some burly grained maple and hope to surprise her with how well it comes out. With the information, I could tell it was exactly the one used before. It had a .15 hole in the shank and the old rivet ad spread to .16, so I knew this was the rivet! Thank you so much for the information!

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  3. My go-to cutlery rivet
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    I make hand-made hoof knives for professional farriers, and these rivets are perfect for securing the one-piece handle to my 1095 blades. Yes, I use epoxy too - because that's just the way I do it - but these rivets are secure enough to use alone. They align easily and set firmly; an arbor press makes quick work of the job. The brass is a warm gold color when polished, and that contrasts nicely with the walnut and purple heart woods I use.

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  4. Rivets for tool handles
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    Rivets work great and are easy to install. Seem to hold very well. Still testing.

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