- 1/16" dia
- Melting temperature is 430°F (221°C)
- Silver Bearing - Lead Free
Use for joining bolsters or guards to stainless or carbon steel. You can also join copper and brass to mild steel.
This is 96% tin and 4% silver.
TIPS: Soldering stainless can be a bit of a challenge and there is a learning curve. You should practice before you do it for the first time on a knife you have just spend hours working on.
Tip 1: Clean, clean, clean. That means don't buff anywhere near the solder joint. Remove all oils and other residue. If you buff on the solder joint prior to soldering, you will *really* regret it.
Tip 2: Heat the metal, not the solder. You need the metal to melt the solder, not the flame from your torch or soldering iron tip.
Tip 3: Consider using a heat gun. This will get you to temp a little slower but it keeps you from blowing past the working temp range (430 to 440F) and burning your flux up.
Tip 4: Don't burn your flux up. If you have scorched it by getting to hot. Start over.
Tip 5: This Stay-Brite Solder melts at 430F, well with in the range to start tempering many kinds of knife steel. Use a wet rag wrapped around the blade or use the more effective Bloc-It heat absorbing paste just above the solder joint. This keeps the higher heat from creeping up into the blade and softening the steel. Normally, if you keep everything below 450F, you should be fine.
Tip 6: Practice makes perfect. This is not a skill you pick right up. Normally, the first time or two, you will get impatient and over heat the joint. Take your time getting it right. I know this is a repeat tip but it matters.
Tip 7: Use can use a scrap piece like a popsicle stick to smooth out the solder.
Tip 8: Use a brass scraper to scrape off any splatter and to even scrape off any excess.
Tip 9: Wash off the flux. It will etch away metal over time and even rust stainless steel.
Tip 10: Solder flows into the joint on it's own via capillary action. You can't push it in or force it to flow into the joint. The solder will bite and flow there flux is and the heat is a little higher than where it is at now.
Recall all the 20+ year old knives you have seen where it rusted or had signs of corrosion around the bolster or guard. This is the result of flux not being cleaned up after soldering.
There is approximately 104' in a 1lb spool of 1/16" dia solder.
What is the procedure for removing Stay Clean® Flux residue?
- Soak soldered parts in two ounces tri-sodium phosphate or bicarbonate soda added to one gallon of water heated to 120ºF.
- Rinse in detergent treated water, heated to 120ºF.
- Rinse in clean water heated to 120ºF.
|What is the procedure for removing ® Flux residue?|
|Stay-Silv Flux can usually be removed by washing or immersing the part in water immediately after brazing. Brushing in conjunction with water quench may help remove stubborn residue. If water isn't sufficient, use a stainless steel brush, jets of steam, emory cloth or blast cleaning. Chemical removal may be necessary. A mild acid solution of 10 - 25% by volume hydrochloric or phosphoric acid is often effective. Heat solution to 120 - 150ºF. Neutralize in solution of soda ash and water, followed by a clear water rinse.|
|How much Stay-Clean® Flux will be required?|
|Approximately 2 oz. per pound of solder.
What is the shelf-life of Stay-Clean® Flux? Stay-Clean Flux has an indefinite shelf life.